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How do YOU approach set building?

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D-Lite

New member
Nov 10, 2010
1,872
0
SF Peninsula
I guess the question applies across all eras, but really it's not so much a current set question.

When you decide to put together a set, be it the regular release, inserts, autos, or what-have-you:

1. How do you kick it off?
Are you buying the big ticket items first?
Do you fill out the set with what's most accessible then worry about the challenges?

2. How do you approach the limits on condition or serial numbers?
Clearly, the vintage is more condition-oriented and modern is more pursuing up to, say, /5.
Do you have a cut-off on condition?
Within condition do you worry about a certain aspect, such as color? Centering? Eye-appeal?
How much of a concern is cost? Do you consider that ahead of time?

3. Is a timeframe for completion a factor?
Meaning, do you want to get it over with to fee your OCD?
Do you want a longterm challenge?


I know the question is multifaceted, but therein lies the fun of asking it.

For me, set completion is about finding something almost niche and making a run at a conquerable task that has some real challenges.
I typically will pursue a "set" of 100-200 items of which there is a few real challenges, where finding the item at a reasonable price and condition is going to be painful. In the video game world, I am a TurboGrafx and Neo Geo Pocket guy. TG16 had around 160 games and a few, such as Magical Chase, are just a nightmare to find. And then there is the packaging/box aspect that truly marks something as complete. New and sealed is another challenge. Neo Geo Pocket is US, Japan, and UK inclusive and each is under 100, but completeness is a big challenge. For each collection (and others including Neo Geo MVS/Arcade and PC Engine), I kinda meandered through the easy and the difficult, though finding a big item early on really spurs interest in completion.

With cards, I've recently taken on 1953 Bowman Color and in this case I started with the big dog, Mantle in SGC 80. So now I'm looking at at least PSA 6 and I know it's going to annoy me the Mantle is SGC. For the set, I'm focusing on eye appeal, where focus and good centering (not necessarily perfect, but 30/70) are my ideals. Color is a factor too, especially when the sky should be BLUE. Last year I attempted the Topps Archives 1983 All Star Autograph set of 15 subjects, numbered /5. I got to 9 of the 15 and then got shut down due to lack of product being opened it would seem. I simply haven't seen 5 of the 6 others I needed, so now I'm selling off those. Too much of a challenge compounded by low popularity of the cases.

What do you do?

<did not make this a poll since the question is too nuanced for pigeon-holing>
 

jay1065

New member
Aug 7, 2008
2,220
0
Lowell, MA
1. How do you kick it off?

I'm working on the 1958 Hires Root Beer set (no tabs.) Currently at 19/66 (28.7%.) I chase any card that comes along, avoiding BINs as much as possible. They don't pop up as much as other vintage sets.

2. How do you approach the limits on condition or serial numbers?

As for condition, poor to good is fine with me. For the poor cards, I need to be able to see and read everything on the card. I can always upgrade later.

3. Is a time frame for completion a factor?

No time frame, just enjoying the chase. For the rest of 2014, I would be content adding only four more. Granted they are the bigger names in the set (Aaron, Ashburn, Mays, and Reese.)
 

NY Tony

New member
Mar 29, 2013
638
0
First and foremost - identify what's attainable - plenty of sets out there that I would love to gun after but if the cost would be too prohibitive - I don't bother.

2- grab the top dog available - usually I scour eBay for cards that I'm interested in and if a top dog swings by and I get it - the door is now opened for the set.

3 - as play money comes - use it as wisely as possible to pick up the pieces - usually in no particular order

4 - I always always try my darnedest to grab gem mint graded cards. Even the top dogs - so when I complete a set - I have every card in the set graded gem.

And that what makes me tick.
 

ThoseBackPages

New member
Aug 7, 2008
32,986
8
New York
Topps Heritage: Used to rip a ton and then trade for stuff i needed. Its more economical to buy the set in the Fall, after the hype is way dead.
 

rsmath

Active member
Nov 8, 2008
6,086
1
When you decide to put together a set, be it the regular release, inserts, autos, or what-have-you:

I consider most sets I do the base cards - if I am really digging the set or the short prints aren't too outrageously priced/hard to find, I'll consider adding short prints to my base set. i rarely like inserts so I never make them part of my set and I don't add autos in a set because most are expensive or hard to find.

1. How do you kick it off?

If it was sets from the 70's -- my birth year to the junk wax era -- I started out with ebay lots and then added singles from single sites or ebay until the sets got completed. Big ticket items were usually purchased last unless I found a good deal while poking around searching for the commons/minor stars.

In modern times - price of the wax on the secondary market months after release usually will determine if I buy some wax to try to build a set. Bowman products are hand-collated set purchases and on topps flagship sets, i sometimes buy wax or sometimes buy hand-collated sets.

2. How do you approach the limits on condition or serial numbers?

I went for EX on the older sets that I've built. It was a good compromise between NRMT/MT that would have been expensive and VG/G/F/P which likely would have had a lot of visible non-corner creases that bug me to look at when I revisit the cards.

3. Is a timeframe for completion a factor?

it was more like budget. I get a paycheck, allocate some of it to the birth year or since-birth-year older sets I was working on. My birth year set took me just over a year, some of the newer ones than that were done in about 6 months to 1 year.
 

joey12508

Well-known member
Aug 7, 2008
38,691
16,343
Winterfell
im doing the 1998 tek set for my guy. First time in all my years of collecting im doing a set, no time frame just picking up what i can when i can.
 

Yanks2151

Active member
Nov 9, 2013
3,231
8
For my 1979 Diamond Greats Yankees autograph set I started by going after the two tough ones, Roger Maris and Joe DiMaggio. I chose to get those two in PSA form. Those are the most expensive two in the 25 card set. After that I have gotten a few at a time at my pace. Elston Howard is the next hurdle in the set because he died a year after the set was produced. I have seen them out there but I wait for a fair price.

Another set I just completed was a base set of Paul O'neill '98 Topps Tek. I had a few from '98 and picked them up in trades and lots on eBay. I was down to just needed one card for the last 4 years before completing it. I just bought another 84 of the 90 cards for set number two. The diffractor set I don't ever see me finishing but the hunt continues and some recent help here at FCB gives me new hope.
 

200lbhockeyplayer

Active member
Aug 10, 2008
11,049
2
1934 Goudey

For me, it's been eye appeal and color, then condition. Ideally a complete PSA 5+ set, I've been building it with that in mind...just not concentrating on the grade as I can always upgrade. With vintage, it's doubtful that lower grades will drop, so no matter what, you'll be alright in any condition. Therefore, if it's got a crease that's noticeable upon close inspection but doesn't affect the color (no chipping, cracking, etc.) I'll consider it.

This set is only 96 cards, but 20 are Hall of Famers...including two Lou Gehrig cards. Broken up into three levels of scarcity, cards #73-96 are the most short-printed and these include the 12 red-banded "Chuck Klein Says" cards. That was the first subset I built as they seem almost out of place in the set. Fortunately only three of the HOFers are short-printed, with one (Kiki Cuyler) as an SSP.

I now have the scans of the cards in my phone, so if I'm at a show or similar, I can simply scroll to the card and compare for upgrades.

As for the "why collect 1934 Goudey set?" question, it features one of two era Dick Porter cards...and he's "my guy."
 
Last edited:

smapdi

Well-known member
Aug 7, 2008
4,397
221
Depends greatly on the set. Is it a full MLB issue with hundreds of cards? If it's vintage, are there any gotchas with SP's or high-numbers and such? Collecting the 1952 Topps set, which I'd love to collect in a PSA 4-5 range. Obviously there are some big cards, but I could imagine grinding out a decent Mantle, Mathews, Robinson, over time. But the 80+ commons in the high numbers that cost $200+ each are what make the set impossible for me. Then there are the red/black first series variations that I'd agonize over. If it's a smaller niche set, like 1932 DeLongs, only 12 cards IIRC, but so hard to find.

Basically, weigh the quality of the cards I want versus cost and availability. Look for things that might be extremely improbably to get. Once I've decided to start a project, I try to identify the hardest cards first. If I'm building a PSA registry set, the low pops in the grade I want are top priority. These are usually commons. Stars take care of themselves.

Also, look for a network of collectors, depending on the target. The PSA boards have a number of guys with tremendous hobby knowledge and great collections. For modern things, PSA and this board and Blowout are good, especially for heavily broken new products like Chrome or Heritage. For things that are hard to find, knowing the right guy is worth a thousand ebay searches.
 

predatorkj

Active member
Aug 7, 2008
11,871
2
I guess the question applies across all eras, but really it's not so much a current set question.

When you decide to put together a set, be it the regular release, inserts, autos, or what-have-you:

1. How do you kick it off?
Are you buying the big ticket items first?
Do you fill out the set with what's most accessible then worry about the challenges?

2. How do you approach the limits on condition or serial numbers?
Clearly, the vintage is more condition-oriented and modern is more pursuing up to, say, /5.
Do you have a cut-off on condition?
Within condition do you worry about a certain aspect, such as color? Centering? Eye-appeal?
How much of a concern is cost? Do you consider that ahead of time?

3. Is a timeframe for completion a factor?
Meaning, do you want to get it over with to fee your OCD?
Do you want a longterm challenge?


I know the question is multifaceted, but therein lies the fun of asking it.

For me, set completion is about finding something almost niche and making a run at a conquerable task that has some real challenges.
I typically will pursue a "set" of 100-200 items of which there is a few real challenges, where finding the item at a reasonable price and condition is going to be painful. In the video game world, I am a TurboGrafx and Neo Geo Pocket guy. TG16 had around 160 games and a few, such as Magical Chase, are just a nightmare to find. And then there is the packaging/box aspect that truly marks something as complete. New and sealed is another challenge. Neo Geo Pocket is US, Japan, and UK inclusive and each is under 100, but completeness is a big challenge. For each collection (and others including Neo Geo MVS/Arcade and PC Engine), I kinda meandered through the easy and the difficult, though finding a big item early on really spurs interest in completion.

With cards, I've recently taken on 1953 Bowman Color and in this case I started with the big dog, Mantle in SGC 80. So now I'm looking at at least PSA 6 and I know it's going to annoy me the Mantle is SGC. For the set, I'm focusing on eye appeal, where focus and good centering (not necessarily perfect, but 30/70) are my ideals. Color is a factor too, especially when the sky should be BLUE. Last year I attempted the Topps Archives 1983 All Star Autograph set of 15 subjects, numbered /5. I got to 9 of the 15 and then got shut down due to lack of product being opened it would seem. I simply haven't seen 5 of the 6 others I needed, so now I'm selling off those. Too much of a challenge compounded by low popularity of the cases.

What do you do?

<did not make this a poll since the question is too nuanced for pigeon-holing>


I collect a different assortment of base sets from all three major sports. I used to do just base sets but as time has gone on, I've tried for sp'd cards and inserts to make them more complete and add a little value.
1. If it's a new set, and I'm after, I don't go after any particular item first but I do tend to try to knock the hard stuff out as soon as I see it. Last years football set featured a ssp'd Brent card of Brent and Becca fame. I purchased it right away though I missed out on the Brady/Tebow ssp. As far as base cards, I'll normally but a starter or complete set from a shop, or I'll buy retail packs. If the base set is available as a factory deal, most times I'll just buy it. So putting last years football set together by hand is not the norm for me. Just costs too much.

2. For serial numbered stuff, nothing numbered less than /50. For vintage, I am a big nutcase when it comes to good centering. I also don't like creases or holes or bad color. So I'm pretty picky. But centering is my biggest beef.

3. I try to finish the set as soon as possible. I don't mind a long term challenge but with a major player collection going, I really don't need any more. Half the sets I'm working on are what I'd consider long term challenges anyways simply because I try to get the base cards as cheap as possible and that is hard to do, even on sport lots. You find a guy who has every card you need and he'll be the seller asking a $1 for a Jeter base card. So I try to weigh the cost versus the reward. But IMO, if you are doing sp's, especially ones of no namers, or serial numbered stuff, the best time to finish that is right when it comes out. Otherwise you could be searching forever.
 

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