Over just a box break
Over just a box break
Well, depends on your definition of worth it.
If you are looking to guarantee a random hit or two, go with a box break.
If you are looking to go with a hit you really want, go with eBay.
If you want to collect a team (all cards, SP's, inserts, occasional hits, etc.) then case breaks are great - when you can pick your team.
I am not a fan of random team case breaks unless they are for high end products and you just want to take a lowish cost flyer on getting the Yankees, Dodgers, etc. (AKA a lottery ticket) I enjoy those too, but you need to be ready to kiss you money 100% goodbye on that type of break.
So, like I said in the beginning, it depends on what you are trying to get out of them.
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Moved to the regular baseball forum for more views...
Currently looking for: 2012 Ultra football (1992 style) #31 Rudy and Gold parallel version of 2011 Bowman Platinum Chase Utley #94
Always looking for: 2008 BC Jake Peavy Orange Refractors /25, have 6 so far.
Some breakers do a division case break which helps your odds as you get the cards of players within the whole division but is more expensive than a random team across the case. I have done 1/2 case breaks and have done mediocre I guess.
AKA - FlaMetsFan
Collector of Mets, Dolphins & NY Rangers
Ive done a few case breaks on e-bay and have done very well to nothing at all.
I collect Ken Griffey Jr, Ryan Howard, Steve Carlton and the rest of the Phillies.
"And all things, whatsoever you shall ask in prayer, believing, you shall recieve."
Depends on the product, cost, and what kind of break. I've only done a couple in total. I did one case break for 2010 Bowman Chrome that was by player, drafted roto style. On that one, I was fortunate to hit a blue refractor, but it was a veteran, and I got scooped on the rookies I wanted. So I think I got a little less than my money's worth, but it was fun. Then I did another break for a different set that was straight teams and we could pick our teams. I picked the Yankees and killed it. If it was random teams, I probably would have gotten the Dbacks or something with no good players (at the time) and gotten killed. So you have to weigh a lot of factors. On the whole, though, it should be obvious that case breaks give you much better odds of hitting a case-level rarity card than single boxes.
I like random slot breaks by player or team. Buying a specific team or player at a set price ahead of time really takes some of the fun away.
Tradelist (open trade folder): https://goo.gl/9QaZll
2011 Topps Heritage Red/Blue/Green Tints - 52% Complete
2010 Topps Allen & Ginter NNO - 15.7% Complete | 2010 Topps Allen & Ginter Bazooka Back - 12.8% Complete
Also looking for 2001 UD Legends New York Ron Darling Gold JSY #d/400
Depends on what your focus of your collection is. If it's mainly to collect a specific team, then case breaks are certainly going to give you better odds of hitting something nice from your team that just grabbing a box off a shelf. Of course you also have to go into it understanding you may get shut out too. It's not for everyone as it's a high risk venture. That being said, case breaks over box breaks also guarantee that at least someone is going to get a case hit in products that have them whereas a single box will be more of a crapshoot.
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group breaks are best if you want to go for just a specific player or team, or you want a chance (for lower buy-in) to get a more expensive team or player spot on a full random
there will be days in group breaks you hit several of the guy you are after, but days you are shut out also-- which makes you think "I would have been better off buying a box with guaranteed hits!"
so, it's all a gamble in the end
you tell me, would you rather buy a jumbo box of bowman for $140 in hopes of hitting a moniak auto, or buy the moniak player spot in a jumbo case for $125 and get all the moniak cards in the case? it's a trade off, and lisu is right-- you can lose your shirt, or hit, or hit big! I've seen people repeatedly pay $500+ for spots in 5-case jumbo breaks and not hit anything of their player, but I've also seen the opposite, where they hit top color autos and base autos and all the non-auto cards too.
in the end, I think it evens out for the most part, but I prefer group breaks because you are more focused in getting the guys or teams you really want-- i.e. you don't end up with 50 Tim Lynch or Bryse Wilson autographs when all is said and done!
WTTF/WTB: Looking for Red Sox cards I don't have of players from modern Bowman products. Always open to trade!