Ebay sellers becoming unglued!

Am I in the wrong in that I think maybe you should NOT have a best offer included on your item if you're going to lose your mind over said offers? An item is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it yet some folks go nuts and feel like you spit in their face if the offer you make isn't within a few dollars of orig. price! I do not lowball but I also do not pay $75 for washed up players nobody else wants. Sorry, just had to vent and if you're a seller that simply refuses an offer without making it seem like the world is going to end then bless you!

I have to add here. I have people send me the same thing when I'm the seller, saying I'm crazy for counter offering what I have :lol:

I think I got screwed... Someone on Ebay named "Yougotegnewed" hit my BIN of $399.99 on Lamar Miller Finest Auto /10 BGS 9.5. Still waiting for him to pay, even though he has a O feedback...

Your thoughts?

Pine Tar said:

I have to add here. I have people send me the same thing when I'm the seller, saying I'm crazy for counter offering what I have :lol:

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Touche'! It is your item to sell, you have every right to ask whatever you want for it so true, it does go both ways

cub4life78 said:

Disregard, pretty sure I just got trolled. Classy dude, real classy.

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I always require an instant payment on a BIN. That way you avoid this situation.

Well...not the troll issue. I was referring to the BIN w/o payment issue.

I never add best offer to my BIN's and I always require immediate payment. Sure I leave money on the table but I always set my BIN right at or just a tad above the going rate and hope somebody bites. I hate getting messages with people asking what the lowest I'll go. For instance last week i got this long, drawn out explanation of why my blue ref auto wasn't worth the asking price of $109.99

What is the lowest you will accept for this? Typically BGS 9's sell for about the same as an ungraded version and with your surface getting an 8.5 grade, I feel it will make it more difficult to sell since more and more people are looking at the sub grades as well

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I responded simply with "$109.99. Thanks for your interest"

MisterT said:

I always require an instant payment on a BIN. That way you avoid this situation.

Well...not the troll issue. I was referring to the BIN w/o payment issue.

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I will have to reconsider that thought... Thanks.

cub4life78 said:

Am I in the wrong in that I think maybe you should NOT have a best offer included on your item if you're going to lose your mind over said offers? An item is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it yet some folks go nuts and feel like you spit in their face if the offer you make isn't within a few dollars of orig. price! I do not lowball but I also do not pay $75 for washed up players nobody else wants. Sorry, just had to vent and if you're a seller that simply refuses an offer without making it seem like the world is going to end then bless you!

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Yup.

I've been put on "no bid" lists -- countless -- because my offers are too low.

You have a best offer system that allows 3 sets of negotiations. Use them. I hate offering my best offer and then getting a ridiculous counter. It happens ALL THE TIME, so I stopped. . . and I offer something that's 25-75% of where I want to be for my first offer. Either I get blasted, banned, or no response at all.

There seems to be very little way to win (and by win, I mean, come to an agreement that both people are happy with) with some people. And some people won't listen to reason. A card just went off with no bids/best offers for $30. I had offered $20 but no response. Another bidder has the same card for $75. I offered $21, my thinking being that I'd be banned from bidding if I offered $10, so I went with my best offer. Seller came back at $55. Really. If I wanted it at $55, I woulda hit the BIN on the $30. I responded with $22, stating that the card closed at $30 with no sale. $22 was refused, no further response.

Dbag.

sigma_chi said:

I never add best offer to my BIN's and I always require immediate payment. Sure I leave money on the table but I always set my BIN right at or just a tad above the going rate and hope somebody bites. I hate getting messages with people asking what the lowest I'll go. For instance last week i got this long, drawn out explanation of why my blue ref auto wasn't worth the asking price of $109.99



I responded simply with "$109.99. Thanks for your interest"

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He was right. It's called negotiations. It's what people do outside of ebay in civilized matters.

I put in an offer yesterday on a card that books $25 (meaningless), but I own multiple copies of that I purchased for under $10 a piece at auction. (Some are even on COMC at $12, and have been there for well over a year).
The guy's BIN price was $29.99. I put in an offer of $10. His counter offer? $28.99.

I declined and moved on.

BTW - I chalk it up to the "Pawn Stars School of Negotiating."

sigma_chi said:

I never add best offer to my BIN's and I always require immediate payment. Sure I leave money on the table but I always set my BIN right at or just a tad above the going rate and hope somebody bites. I hate getting messages with people asking what the lowest I'll go. For instance last week i got this long, drawn out explanation of why my blue ref auto wasn't worth the asking price of $109.99


I responded simply with "$109.99. Thanks for your interest"

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It's fair game I think. buyers are trying to get a good deal. I usually answer with a slightly lower "direct" price if I'm not taking BO on something, though I typically set an auto-decline on BIN/BO's so I'll answer with my minimum on those. For times when I'm feeling out the market, I just ignore them.

A_Pharis said:

BTW - I chalk it up to the "Pawn Stars School of Negotiating."

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Yeah. . . the problems with that are, 1) the show is completely fake and 2) most people taking their valuables, in Vegas, to a Pawn Shop, are desperate for fast cash and won't take the time and effort to put the item up for auction on eBay or another private auction house where they can get double/triple their funds and the shop has all the power -- they're going to stay in business whether or not you sell your item to them, whereas the seller needs the money. Typically not the case on eBay - the buyer has all of the power as there are typically numerous sellers with the same item, as in the Pawn SHop, they're the only buyer.

Basically, on eBay, the buyer has the power level that "Rick Harrison" does on Pawn Stars. Sellers don't realize that.

I meant more as - "poorly thought-out business practice". I don't understand some sellers' thoughts when the situation is just what you said. There are other sellers out there.

Bob Loblaw said:

He was right. It's called negotiations. It's what people do outside of ebay in civilized matters.

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I see your point but disagree. If I wanted to negotiate I would have added the best offer to my listing. I didn't because I don't want to haggle. If the card sells then it sells....if it doesn't then no big deal. The last thing I want to do is respond to messages telling me how my card wasn't worth what i was asking for it. If I needed the money I would put it at a price where I knew I could move it quickly.

I guess I'm in the minority. I very rarely submit offers on cards because most are way out of line. Occasionally I do and usually have a good experience. Liast night there was a card up for $149.99 with a best offer that's been sitting up for about a month. With a few hours to go I put up a $75 offer that was just about going rate. The buyer countered with $95 and I again countered with $85 and was accepted. The card was a 1/1 so I don't mind paying a bit more than going rate for a 1/1 of my player but I guess that I got lucky with a seller that was realistic.

I do BIN's with BO's and sometimes I put them a few (2-3 dollars higher) then I would try to sell them here. I'm taking in account the fees I will lose in my price. But not actually gouging someone, just saying if I would take 10 for something that sell for 15 on the ebay. I may go with a stater of say 13 and the I may even take 2-3 less which will still be my 10 bucks and then the buyer may thing they got a fair deal.

I really don't sell much that warrants worry if I leave money on the table. But it can be a pain in the ass sometimes just getting the dialog going.
[MENTION=2408]Bob Loblaw[/MENTION] I get where your coming from. If you put out a best offer the expect to get someone taking 25-35 % off your asking price. So Adjust your starting point accordingly to make the in between work for you and the buyer.

Some sellers are paranoid of leaving a penny on the table, so they refuse reasonable offers in the market price range, especially if that range has dropped since they listed the card. Why they get bent out of shape over any offer, reasonable or unreasonable, is part of the nature of some humans.

Some sellers list lots of cards and might not intentionally list a particular thing with a BO, but simply because that's what they did with the previous card and didn't change the settings. They might not even be aware of the BO until they get one, and that leads to countering with the same BIN price, or a penny less or something else that looks ridiculous on the surface.

Some sellers are just not good at human interaction, and the particular coldness of electronic communications just sets some people off. You get a big email/message from ebay and to them is says,"Hey someone is interested in your item and they think it's worth $X. So take it if you're a sucker because they obviously conning you out of cash, or leave it, and send them a piece of your mind in the meantime." The third option of counteroffering is painful to them, if they are even aware it exists, because that means conceding that their price is too high, that they are "wrong."

All in all, if someone writes a long justification for the price, on either side of the transaction, it just signals to me that they are not comfortable with the medium and are going to lose out on good deals.

It's just part of the weird, wacky, world wide web.

sigma_chi said:

I see your point but disagree. If I wanted to negotiate I would have added the best offer to my listing. I didn't because I don't want to haggle. If the card sells then it sells....if it doesn't then no big deal. The last thing I want to do is respond to messages telling me how my card wasn't worth what i was asking for it. If I needed the money I would put it at a price where I knew I could move it quickly.

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My mistake. If you didn't have a B/O on it, then there's no point in trying to negotiate. I agree with you, then.

smapdi said:

All in all, if someone writes a long justification for the price, on either side of the transaction, it just signals to me that they are not comfortable with the medium and are going to lose out on good deals.

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Nailed it!