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1934 Goudey Dick Porter Superfractor - and a Superfractor "How to..."

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200lbhockeyplayer

Active member
Aug 10, 2008
11,049
2
It's been a white since I've posted a custom or a custom "how to" so this should be an appropriate "knock out two birds with one stone" approach.

As a lot of you already know, Dick Porter (an old family friend of my father and grandfather) had a mere two main cards from his playing days - 1933 Tattoo Orbit and 1934 Goudey. The Goudey is a classic, so why not revamp it in Superfractor style...while keeping the integrity of the legendary set.

The end result...
porter-goudey-superfractor.jpg


So, how was it done in less than 15 minutes?

1. Your files, front and back (assuming you're making a standard two-sided card)
superfractor-01.jpg


2. Superfractor sticker vinyl (available on Ebay or a local sign shop)
superfractor-02.jpg


3. Print the front image in reverse on a clear acetate or resin using a standard inkjet printer
superfractor-03.jpg


4. Flip it over so that the printed side is facing you
superfractor-04.jpg


5. Knock out the player (or whatever else desired) with a white paint pen
superfractor-05.jpg


6. The main three components ready to be joined
superfractor-06.jpg


7. After adhering the clear printed layer to the vinyl sticker using double-sided adhesive acetate, flatten as completely as possible with pressure (or cold lamination machine if available).
superfractor-07.jpg


8. Adhere the back of the card to the peeled vinyl sticker backing. Cut to size. Flatten as completely as possible to remove any bubbles or adhesive marks. Poof. Magic. A Superfractor.
superfractor-08.jpg


Now, obviously this is not the easiest of ways to do it, nor is this the way that the manufacturers do it, but the concept is the same...and virtually anyone can do it at home with a few bucks in materials.

The step with the most amount of options is the printing and the knockout. With a solvent printer, you can print an opaque white, therefore eliminating the knockout step. You can also create a dry transfer of the knockout or die-cut white vinyl for the knockout. But, with a relatively steady hand, you can paint it easy enough with great results.

The above can be applied to any type of vinyl or surface. If you're going to do a completely clear acetate style card, I'd recommend creating a dry transfer and applying it as it looks the most clean. I did some business cards for a friend using dry transfer and 2mm acetate and they looked awesome.
 

Nate Colbert 17

Active member
Aug 10, 2008
3,693
0
Texas
That is one of the coolest things I have seen on this board.
 

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200lbhockeyplayer

Active member
Aug 10, 2008
11,049
2
Thanks gents.

I'm in the (slow) process of creating a complete 1934 superfractor set to match up with my complete real set. At 96 cards, it's not too bad, just tedious at times.
 

scotty216brs

Active member
Apr 15, 2012
3,524
16
MA
Ah, finally a new addition to the ole' Porter collection! Very nice job with the custom, Mike. Wouldn't mind seeing one of his Tattoo Orbit, as well. :)


Thanks gents.

I'm in the (slow) process of creating a complete 1934 superfractor set to match up with my complete real set. At 96 cards, it's not too bad, just tedious at times.
Looking forward to seeing those!!
 

200lbhockeyplayer

Active member
Aug 10, 2008
11,049
2

fordman

Well-known member
Feb 22, 2013
3,190
32
Ohio
Great job! I've never owned a superfractor and dont really know what they look like to see how they're layered.

So they're layered like this:

1) card stock
2) small engine turn gold vinyl
3) reverse printed on acetate (use a white paint pen to block out the gold vinyl on the reversed printed side of the acetate)
and
4) the card back

Assuming this is the process?

Fordman
 

200lbhockeyplayer

Active member
Aug 10, 2008
11,049
2
Great job! I've never owned a superfractor and dont really know what they look like to see how they're layered.

So they're layered like this:

1) card stock
2) small engine turn gold vinyl
3) reverse printed on acetate (use a white paint pen to block out the gold vinyl on the reversed printed side of the acetate)
and
4) the card back

Assuming this is the process?

Fordman

From top (front) to bottom (back)

1. Reverse printed clear photo resin (with knockout applied if desired)
2. Adhesive
3. Vinyl sticker background (adhesive backed, so you can apply directly to back of card)
4. Back of card (whatever stock you decide)
 

scotty216brs

Active member
Apr 15, 2012
3,524
16
MA

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