Making Custom Relic Cards

[bigunitcards]

Working on my custom card to get signed at the National this year; what is the best method for cutting out the inset area for a jersey/patch piece on a super-thick blank card?

 

[finestkind]

This member makes his own awesome custom cards.
mouschi

 

[fordman]

Working on my custom card to get signed at the National this year; what is the best method for cutting out the inset area for a jersey/patch piece on a super-thick blank card?

If you know how to use photoshop, gimp or other graphic program, think layers.

Cut your relic window on the printed layer. Put your relic in the card stock layer. You will have to dig into the card stock layer to so your relics sit flush whit the top of the card stock layer. Your top printed layer wont sit correctly on the card stock layer unless you make the relic flush on the card stock layer. Make your relic larger that the window on the printed layer so you cant see the sides of the relics.



Hope this helps.

Fordman

 

[bigunitcards]

The one I'm making is a logoman patch, so the cutout in the cardstock has to be pretty well carved out. I'm just curious of what the best method for doing that is, using an exacto knife and being really careful, using a small powertool to cut all the way thru, etc. I imagine card companies use some sort of squared blade that cuts thru halfway?

Should I be cutting a window in something this thick or is there a better way?

 

[Brewer Andy]

If you cut it big enough you don't have to be as careful obviously. Another option is to use multiple thinner layers for the middle instead of one thick piece.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fordman]

The one I'm making is a logoman patch, so the cutout in the cardstock has to be pretty well carved out. I'm just curious of what the best method for doing that is, using an exacto knife and being really careful, using a small powertool to cut all the way thru, etc. I imagine card companies use some sort of squared blade that cuts thru halfway?

Should I be cutting a window in something this thick or is there a better way?

The front/back of card printed layer is no thicker than a 4x6 print you'd get from CVS-Kroger-Walgreens or print yourself at home. The thick layer, you have to dig into for your relic. If you happen to have a punch of some sort that will punch out a spot for the relic on the thick layer, that would do but most don't have one so Xacto knife it is. Once you get all your layers made, glue them front>relic>back. There is no way you can print on the thick layer.

Watch one of the panini video's on YouTube and they do it the same way. Fast forward to the 2:00 mark for the making of the cards.


Fordman

 

[A_Pharis]

You can probably find a small chisel or die at a craft store. Map you out a window on the thick blank and tap on that chisel/die with a small hammer along your outline until you get a suitable depth. I would suggest just going completely through the blank and backing it, afterwards, with a blank card stock. Then put your printed back on that.

 

[smapdi]

I made a lot of models in architecture school, usually from chipboard for quick demos but nice, clean Strathmore board for finished work. Single ply was ok but triple and quadruple ply was rough. Using an X-acto knife was the preferred method for getting the edges as clean as possible. We would go through a LOT of blades. Some professors said to use a blade one time, as the thick paper really dulls the edge and takes off the oil that makes the blade move smoothly. But they didn't have to buy their own blades, and changing the blade after every cut takes forever. Anyway, you can carve out the middle with knives or chisels but the edges, where the interior of the paper is seen, needs to be clean, otherwise it looks like an amateur job. Try it out on a dummy card, but you also might get a sheet or two of multi-ply Strathmore and experiment.

 

[fordman]

I made a lot of models in architecture school, usually from chipboard for quick demos but nice, clean Strathmore board for finished work. Single ply was ok but triple and quadruple ply was rough. Using an X-acto knife was the preferred method for getting the edges as clean as possible. We would go through a LOT of blades. Some professors said to use a blade one time, as the thick paper really dulls the edge and takes off the oil that makes the blade move smoothly. But they didn't have to buy their own blades, and changing the blade after every cut takes forever. Anyway, you can carve out the middle with knives or chisels but the edges, where the interior of the paper is seen, needs to be clean, otherwise it looks like an amateur job. Try it out on a dummy card, but you also might get a sheet or two of multi-ply Strathmore and experiment.

Or you can buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/Strathmore-105901-Bristol-Trading-3-5-Inch/dp/B008BXIUTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461680407&sr=8-1&keywords=artists+trading+cards

They're pre cut to regular trading card size and you can buy various thicknesses.

Fordman

 

[KLARNOLD]

Make a 5x7 jumbo card and include the pinstripes with the MLB logo.

 

[IndyManning18]

Make a 5x7 jumbo card and include the pinstripes with the MLB logo.

A cabinet card would be cool.

 

[bigunitcards]

Exacto knife worked good enough, just had to carve it out layer by layer, 6 layers deep.