The 2008 AFLAC Jason Heyward autograph registry

[Wes]

Anyone holding on to anything Heyward (unless you bought late at a high price) is being FOOLISH!

Isn't this what the prospectors were saying during Spring Training? Then Opening Day happened.

I said hold till debut. Selling during ST made NO sense to me.

 

[Wes]

Depends on how rare the card you have is...plus some people don't need or are not looking to make money.

I agree there's room for everything, but holding cards isn't always foolish as you say, some people may be in a different boat then you are.

[quote="uniquebaseballcards":1uejsefv]What if you happen to collect the guy or team?

Sheesh.

[quote="Messier2":1uejsefv]Anyone holding on to anything Heyward (unless you bought late at a high price) is being FOOLISH!

Sure, that works too. Sell the Heyward, make some money and buy it later at a cheap price or use the profits to buy other Braves players...no harm in that right?

I'm just talking specifically about Heyward cards. Holding cards is fine and dandy in most cases. But, in cases like this..you gotta sell and if you are really into the player...buy it back later.

What if he is like Tim Lincecum and never comes back down? He's struggled mightlily but his cards show no signs of slowing. I don;t really see the point of selling now at $150 and buying it for $100 later. Is that $50 really worth the hassle of selling and listing and rebuying? Im not rich, but its hardly worth it.[/quote:1uejsefv]


Agreed!

It makes little to no sense to rebuy for a collector. If this calculator I found online is correct, he is how it would be for me personally, assuming I could get $165 for it, which was a common price after Opening Day:

BIN Fee: .50
Final Value fee: 12.90
Pay Pal fee: 5.09

I always offer free shipping, so I assume $5 for shipping, packaging and insurance.

This leaves me with 141.51.
The cost of the card for me was $25 a little after release, so now I'm at 116.51. This would currently not be enough to rebuy the card despite his recent struggles. It also assumes that the card will go that low again, which is a risk I'm not willing to take.[/quote:1uejsefv]

Even if he continues to mash the hype will die down - look at Ryan Braun.

 

[Penno]

Depends on how rare the card you have is...plus some people don't need or are not looking to make money.

I agree there's room for everything, but holding cards isn't always foolish as you say, some people may be in a different boat then you are.

[quote="Messier2":4civi2rf][quote="uniquebaseballcards":4civi2rf]What if you happen to collect the guy or team?

Sheesh.

[quote="Messier2":4civi2rf]Anyone holding on to anything Heyward (unless you bought late at a high price) is being FOOLISH!

Sure, that works too. Sell the Heyward, make some money and buy it later at a cheap price or use the profits to buy other Braves players...no harm in that right?

I'm just talking specifically about Heyward cards. Holding cards is fine and dandy in most cases. But, in cases like this..you gotta sell and if you are really into the player...buy it back later.

What if he is like Tim Lincecum and never comes back down? He's struggled mightlily but his cards show no signs of slowing. I don;t really see the point of selling now at $150 and buying it for $100 later. Is that $50 really worth the hassle of selling and listing and rebuying? Im not rich, but its hardly worth it.[/quote:4civi2rf]


Agreed!

It makes little to no sense to rebuy for a collector. If this calculator I found online is correct, he is how it would be for me personally, assuming I could get $165 for it, which was a common price after Opening Day:

BIN Fee: .50
Final Value fee: 12.90
Pay Pal fee: 5.09

I always offer free shipping, so I assume $5 for shipping, packaging and insurance.

This leaves me with 141.51.
The cost of the card for me was $25 a little after release, so now I'm at 116.51. This would currently not be enough to rebuy the card despite his recent struggles. It also assumes that the card will go that low again, which is a risk I'm not willing to take.[/quote:4civi2rf]

Even if he continues to mash the hype will die down - look at Ryan Braun.[/quote:4civi2rf]

The hype will die down, at least most likely. However, it would have to get below $100 to make any kind of real profit. I'm just pointing out the cost to actually sell and buy back, as most people don't take into consideration fees and /or the cost of goods sold. Obviously not everyone uses ebay, but to get the greatest gross price, one has to use ebay and/or pay pal in some form..

To label collectors as foolish for not selling, is well, foolish.

 

[bradical]

Without some type of official registry from Topps, you would have no idea if the Hologram numbers here are valid or not.

As discussed at the Hobby Roundtable, this is one of things manufacturers need to start being more proactive about. Keeping a detailed inventory of numbers released, patches released, and on-hand scans of buy-back and special issued items that have lead to the recent slew of deceptive sellers on eBay.

 

[brouthercard]

Without some type of official registry from Topps, you would have no idea if the Hologram numbers here are valid or not.

As discussed at the Hobby Roundtable, this is one of things manufacturers need to start being more proactive about. Keeping a detailed inventory of numbers released, patches released, and on-hand scans of buy-back and special issued items that have lead to the recent slew of deceptive sellers on eBay.

I know my holo number is valid cause I just pulled the card out of a box yesterday. The second responder has a similar number, so we know the legit cards should have holos starting with the number 8487xxx. Topps usually applies stickers sequentially to the same card, so it can give us an estimate of the number of cards produced, and provide potential buyers of this card in the future that are members of the board the confidence to make the purchase if further inquiry shows that the sticker number actually starts with the numbers 8487---. If you have a card with a serial number WAY off from that, then it is probably a fake or a secondary obtained autograph, not an original pack-inserted one, which would be the most valuable.

This information is invaluable to anyone who would be interested in this card in the future, cause I guarantee you there will be forgeries if this card remains this expensive.

 

[bradical]

I know my holo number is valid cause I just pulled the card out of a box yesterday. The second responder has a similar number, so we know the legit cards should have holos starting with the number 8487xxx. Topps usually applies stickers sequentially to the same card, so it can give us an estimate of the number of cards produced, and provide potential buyers of this card in the future that are members of the board the confidence to make the purchase if further inquiry shows that the sticker number actually starts with the numbers 8487---. If you have a card with a serial number WAY off from that, then it is probably a fake or a secondary obtained autograph, not an original pack-inserted one, which would be the most valuable.

This information is invaluable to anyone who would be interested in this card in the future, cause I guarantee you there will be forgeries if this card remains this expensive.

I understand what you are saying and I follow your logic, but without some type of confirmation from Topps, it is just speculation.

I have a ton of 2008 Bowman Chrome Autos of the same player with the Holograms on the back, and they are far from sequential order.

 

[bmc398]

I know my holo number is valid cause I just pulled the card out of a box yesterday. The second responder has a similar number, so we know the legit cards should have holos starting with the number 8487xxx. Topps usually applies stickers sequentially to the same card, so it can give us an estimate of the number of cards produced, and provide potential buyers of this card in the future that are members of the board the confidence to make the purchase if further inquiry shows that the sticker number actually starts with the numbers 8487---. If you have a card with a serial number WAY off from that, then it is probably a fake or a secondary obtained autograph, not an original pack-inserted one, which would be the most valuable.

This information is invaluable to anyone who would be interested in this card in the future, cause I guarantee you there will be forgeries if this card remains this expensive.

I understand what you are saying and I follow your logic, but without some type of confirmation from Topps, it is just speculation.

I have a ton of 2008 Bowman Chrome Autos of the same player with the Holograms on the back, and they are far from sequential order.

Worst part is that you could give them the serial # and it would do you no good. They have no clue what serial # is on what card. At least they didn't 2 years ago when I was involved in an issue with fake AP Bowman Chrome autos (wasn't me buying them....was acting as "Captain Morality" on behalf of a dumb friend who got taken).